The sailing trip starts from Rhodes and it’s planned to sail the classic wooden two master schooner to Turkey. Micha the owner needs to upgrade a few things due to EU regulations and will stay over winter in Marmaris. He is looking for sailors and captain to help out during the journeys. She was solidly built 1982 in north France and seems to be well maintained. The gentleman rule is: never sail against the wind!
On a cold’n rainy October Monday morning I catch the bus with my luggage bag to Lucerne railway station. From platform 4 the train is heading to Basel and is already there. As time flys I check my clock. Oh it’s 09.35! Wasn’t the departure scheduled for 09.30? In my thoughts the flight from Basel comes up. Could this be it?
09.36 and the announcement: we have technical problems and should be ready in a a few minutes. Again one of this double story Bombardier shaky trains. Can I make with a train change?
At 09.40 the information: the train falls out and next connecting trains are …. 09.54 from platform 7 to Basel. This time she leaves punctually, I’m in the crowded kids wagon, full of funny stickers, where a free space was.
Once through airport security heading to gate 44 the seats are full of waiting passengers. A young lad at gate desk holds up his microphone and calls „All passengers to Athens with speedy board tickets to Athens may proceed …“. Whow just on time with the next train, not bad !
On the landing approach you could see many small islands with quite a calm dark blue ocean. After 2 hours flight touchdown at 14.36 in Athens and 1 hour plus local time the exit and terminal B was several kilometres underground away. The endless tube walk or escalator ride ended after a few turns and upstairs the sun was shining through a foggy mist. Athens humid air had approx. 25 degrees and it was slightly windy. The flight to Rhodos at 7.20 pm was short hop and once on the island the arriving bus took me along the coast, past all hotel bunkers, tourism bars and restaurants to the city centre of Rhodos. During the bus ride I checked how far the walk is to the Rhodes Marina, but didn’t know where the bus ride will end. In town at the bus endstation the map showed me a thirty minute walk, so heading in the right direction there was a cab station just around the corner. Ten minutes at the marina gate I headed to the schooners position which Micha sent me before.
There she was the wooden two mast schooner. Knock, knock and a loud „Hallo“ once on board, but no echo came back. I dropped my bag off and walked to the restaurant, where I met the crew Martin and Jochen and Captain Michael.
After a first good night sleep on board in the bow port side compartment we had breakfast on board and headed to the nearby area to get some supplies. There was a delicious bakery with all kind of greek sweets, fresh bread and pastries. Back on board we moored off and headed to Symni, 24 sm away.
With perfect wind & weather conditions we sailed up the Turkish coastline.
On Gyali island we dropped the anchor and I cooked penne with vegetable sugo, served with an excellent Italian Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine from Micha’s cellar. The next morning was time for a first swim 23.4 degrees warm ocean.
In the background Pumice is mined and transported by cargo ships. Half of the island has been excavated in the meantime, due to the high demand as lightweight building material, beauty industries and pedicure.
Next destination is Kos, where we mainly motored to, as the wind was to low. In the old Mandraki port we moored and after the anchor beer we where ready for dinner. Most of the restaurants where already closed, but we found a great one with Vinylio Wein Restaurant, a master of greek mezes.
In the morning we went to the harbour masters office to ask for a winter stay when we come back a few weeks later. The very formal reception lady in a dark blue uniform told us to wait, till the responsible officer is back. Approximately 10 minutes later a marine officer past us in the waiting room and the lady spoke to him. He returned and Micha asked him if it’s possible to stay for a few months in the Mandraki town harbour. Quite quickly he responded and advised to ask in the Kos Marina, which is very expensive and poor protected against strong winds, storms from the south. We strolled a bit around in Kos, had an coffee and I found a barber shop to get my long wanted haircut.
When back on board Jochen informed Micha that a marinero named Paulo came past and said we could have water and electricity giving his mobile number on a small paper note. Micha called him and soon he had a offer to leave the schooner over the winter for a really good price. But he needs to check the mooring lines, divers will make them ready next week. No problem Micha said, we are back from the sailing trip in approximately 10 days. The deal was so good to had to salute with a noon time beer. Shortly afterwards we dropped the lines for our next destination Kalymnos.
Next morning we dropped off Martin in the rock climbing hot spot Arginonta. After a coffee break on land we headed then to Pantelli beach on Leros with good wind conditions.
In the bay before Pantelli beach we dropped the anchor in the dark. Jochen was the cook for tonight with another delicious wine from Micha‘s cellar.
After a morning inspection of Arki we headed to the close by Patmos.
A few sea miles south was the shipyard Micha wanted to visit, where we where warmly welcomed.
Soon the ship master Christos recognised that it was a Shpountz built by the Daniel Z. Bombigher. We got invited to visit the traditional boat manufacturing ship yard by the owner.
After the impressing ship yard inspection we got invited to stay for the most delightful lunch, served at the shipyard’s restaurant.
Time was getting short to reach Levitha, but we managed to moor off at 3 pm and had good winds.
Once anchored Micha prepared a delicious pasta dish with peppers, garlic, onions in olive oil, together with a salad and a frizzante red wine from his cellar.
Next day Astypalaia was on the program. Again good wind & weather conditions, arriving in the towns port shortly after nightfall.
From Astypalaia to Nysiros we had good wind for the 38 sm and arrived in the empty Mandraki port and we moored on starboard with many fenders against the harbour wall, since the sea was quite calm. A friendly tall grown greek young man helped us with the mooring lines and soon came Popi, the highly recommended lady in Navily from the opposite car & scooter rental. She said we can stay for free and have electricity and water. There is also a local greek festival in a small village called Emporios with sponsored food from the church, drinks to purchase and authentic greek band playing. After our mooring beer I went over to ask her for more information and she handed me two leaflets and island map and very interesting brochure of Nysiros. Back on board we decided to have a land day rent a car and explore everything.
The next day there was loud thump on the starboard side, while brushing my teeth. The wind direction changed and the waves pushing us against the harbour wall. Soon it was clear we have to change the ship’s position and place the anchor with aft lines to the shore.
After the safe position we needed to fill up the water tanks with the long water hose from the car rental shop. The tall greek lad opened up the water tap and it flowed with low pressure. Jochen cleaned the deck and we tilted the dinghy upwards onto the port side rig for a clean rinse and to dry. Popi came just before noon and advised they are closing and going up to the festival. After a short visit in her office she handed Micha the key for the rental car. The water was running for hours and finally the 400 liter water tank was full.
After a short drive up to Emporios we soon noticed that the small village was crowded and stood in the small center plaza where the magic event took place.
In the priests room the cooking area took place. Many helpers served the stacked tablets of food through the crowd of dancing locals. We found a back door entrance and it took a portion of patience to get a dish, as actually it’s not allowed to be served directly in the kitchen. But since we had no space on table and after a few greek discussions, we received two plates to participate at the holy Michaels honour.
Amidst happiness and joy, the surroundings become irrelevant. Ruined houses are transformed into festive venues. Musicians play their hearts out beneath old archways.
According to Greek mythology, it was Poseidon who seized a chunk of Kos hurling it up to the fiery titan Polyvotis, creating the volcanic island of Nisyros.
In the afternoon we made winterisation preparations and found a great restaurant Giammeze. As the name says, a meze restaurant with great local red wine. The meatballs with Ouzo was the best!
Next day my ferry left to Athens in the evening. In a Pullman’s seat the night journey went quickly past. The morning hopping on the direct bus X96 to Athens Airport and on to the flight back home.
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