Next morning we motored up the Butrint river in our dinghy 2.5 Km stream upwards. After a short while it was very shallow and the 2.5 hp motor started to struggle. The propeller was stirring up the muddy seabed chopping seagrass. By tilting the motor a few times the seagrass flung off gaining normal speed again.

By approaching the old river ferry we reached the Butrint national park entrance.

With 9 hectares of hilly terrain surrounded by freshwater lakes, wetlands, salt marshes, open plains, the parks archaeological site provides valuable remains of ancient civilisations.

Inhabited since prehistoric times 50‘000 BC, Butrint has been the site of a Greek colony 800 BC, a Roman city 44 BC and a bishopric. Following a period of prosperity under Byzantine administration, then a brief occupation by the Venetians 1400 AC, the city was abandoned in the late Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area.

The present archaeological site is a repository of ruins representing each period in the city’s development.

Butrint bay area with two lonesome sailing yachts.

Back on the boat we set sails and zig zagged across the channel between Corfu and Albania with good speeds down to one of the last Albanian bays before the Greece border.

Shortly after 11am we arrived in the old fisherman’s Port, Corfu. After that begann the marathon with the greek customs and port authority’s.

In total we covered 421 nm in 15 days on sea and the following statistics:

Next day we woke up at 8am and Willy headed spontaneously off into the city to get some missing provisions. On deck we prepared breakfast and showed up with chocolate croissants, Albanian style with a creamy light brown and very sweet filling. We prepared to moor off and then Llambi appeared waving to us with the clearance document in his hand. I was pleased to have a official document covered with stamps to hand over at our departing port in Sarande. He wished us all the best for our journey and to us later again. I started the engine and Willy dropped the only starboard bow mooring line and I put the forward gear in and commanded to Uwe: Cast off the lines and we loosened the aft lines, pulled them quickly in in an headed out of the marina berth into huge port area.

Outside we had a good breeze and sailed south along the Albanian coastline.

Mid afternoon the water was very shallow with many people bathing and we spotted a fish restaurant called Posh on the map. The ground was sandy and good for anchoring so we decided to go on land with our dinghy leaving the yacht half a mile from beach on it’s own.

It showed up that the local beach restaurant was very posh so we ordered from the menu posh salad, grilled squid, shrimps and french fries with Munich Paulaner beer and a coke for the skipper.

The portions where quite small, so we ordered another plate of french fires and a round of beer with Italian music oldies running all the time. We walked back on the beach and noticed a police officer standing at the waterfront next to our dinghy. A second one came shortly and they asked us for our identity cards. Willy and I handed them over and they made fotos with their mobile phones each. Va bene said the officer and we explained that we came from Durres and are heading to Greece. Ok, all good he said. Uwe’s ID card was on the boat and they accepted the excuse and both rose their finger, Ok we can go. We managed to paddled back to the boat through the breaking waves getting all a bit wet. After a short swim and cool-down we motored a few miles south and anchored in front of an lagoon Petritit behind the sand beach. Far behind us we could hear the music from a beach bar and where happy to be in a totally remote place for the night.
Next morning the wind came shortly after 10 and we calmly sailed down the coastline with 2-3 knots speed.

Today we made same procedure as yesterday and assuming anchored in front of the restaurant Bar Restorant Adriatik but it turned out just to be a beach bar, so we moved the boat another mile down to the right place.

We called them to see if their kitchen was open, on the phone their was just a hallo, then came a friendly young voice and asked what we would like to eat, assuming we wanted it delivered on board. I asked her if we could eat in their restaurant and they can pick us up with their boat. She asked someone in the background and replied yes, at what time? In half an hour we are ready I replied.

We got picked up by a black haired young couple with or siblings and they directed is into the kitchen to see what they are cooking. The grandmother gave us a sweet fried dough with some cherry jam to taste in the middle of kitchen mess. It was delicious and they showed us the fish they had catched, homemade tzatziki, shrimps … We agreed to all and received after our first local beer our first platter with salads and fried potatoes.

As last dish we received a fruit platter with very ripe honey melon, oranges and small pears. It was definitely too much all, but it was the right place, a simple run family restaurant from 10 year old boys to the 70 year old Grandma. We asked for the bill and new they only would accept LEK, the local currency. Willy had 5200 left over and where querying how much would it cost us. She came with the hand written bill all in detail listed and it was exactly 5200 LEK!

On the transfer back to the boat a brother or relative waded through the water to us with a large 10 liter PET canister. He jumped in and headed to our boat where Uwe was on board. After the drop off they headed out into the shallow sea to check there fishing nets and boxes. The canister was with fuel, so they safely come home back.

We drank a beer on board till later in the night and where again very pleased of the day.

For the next day our target was to buy provisions in Vlorë, the second largest harbour city in Albania.

The morning wind picked up quite soon after the porridge breakfast and obligatory tee cans of English breakfast with milk and darjeeling. We arrived at Vlorë at 4pm and we moored at the old pier to head into town. On channel 16 the harbour master advised us that we can stay max. 1 1/2 hours and that was fine for us to go shopping. Once of the gate we found in the close surroundings all we needed from fresh fruit to a local bakery. Along the port fences there was the beach for locals and quite normal to drive with the car on to the beach.

In the glooming afternoon heat Willy and Uwe stored the provisions on board before we casted off the pier.

On the way escaping the city heat we enjoyed the wind increase to set the sails to our new destiny.

A few miles ahead we found a nice bay for the evening and next morning land exploration.

Old military bunker systems are widely spreaded along the Albanian coastline.

Our destination in sight Corfu (Kerkyra) island in the Ionian Sea.

It was a great night ride through the adriatic sea at max cruising speed. All of us had there life vests with security belts fastened on center cockpit railing.

We all went early to bed to get up at 1am. After a short sleep we lifted up the anchor and motored a sea mile out into the black sea. The sky was clear and the stars above glowing to us down.

Uwe and Willi where standing at the bow with their torches looking out for small fisher buoys. Once all was clear and out enough in the sea we raised the mainsail in the 2nd reef and unfurled after a while the genoa sail also strongly reefed. The north east wind had arrived 24 knots blowing in the perfect direct for our journey through the Gulf of Drin.

After a few cuppa black teas with milk and delicious coconut chocolate cookies the morning light started to appear along the Albanian coastline shortly before 5am.

20 Minutes later the sun rose above the horizon, which was a special moment to whiteness in open waters.

We sailed through to Durres arriving at Albanians largest port at 12.00 noon.

To have all customs cleared you need an agent to organise the local bureaucratic. Llambi reacted frankly to our email inquiry a few hours before and made us an offer with berth place in the harbour. A single berth was free and we where pleased to have a place in this industrial harbour.

Llambi appeared promptly after our arrival and gave us useful tips what to see. He was a former marine surveyor with profound experience about customs. We where very pleased not to run about and make translations for this procedure. At the end of the very friendly discussion’s I asked him about the costs and he replied that all together he charges 100 Euros with the marina berth fee, bathrooms, free water, electricity and wifi! What a good deal we thought and accepted his kind offer.

Now it was time for a afternoon’s nap and shower before we headed into Durres town. We woke up later in the hot afternoon at 38 degrees outside temperature and after that a cool and reliefing shower refreshing.

At 5pm we left the marina to the main road with high fences. Llambi advised us to take the pedestrian bridge half a mile further down to cross the main road and enter the city centre of Durres. On the way all was high fenced with bars to protect the port area with all the containers in this huge area. Walking up the pedestrian bridge we had a magnificent view and could spot our tiny marina with masts of the yachts and adjacent the huge ferries passaging to Italy, Greece.

Before we reached the end of the passage we had to walk through an unattended security checkpoint. By opening the swinging doors an other world opened to us. High rise buildings in plattenbau style with local takeaways, bars, phone shops, hairdressers and so on.

On shady walkways we headed to the famous amphitheatre, passing several shoe and exclusive boutique‘s, coffee bars in the hot streets of Durres city. We finally arrived and walked up to overview the „ludii gladiatorii“ amphitheater, imaging how competitions have been held out.

It‘s never too late! 

What a good start to type on my typewriter again. I love typing with my two thumbs, the letters to create words and stories, all into my phones notes app. 

An article in the magazine ERNST #19/20 „Schreibt“ brought me back to the idea, underlined with statement from the clairvoyant Claudia, who said to my wife Carmen that „there is a lost writer“.