From Paros to Leros – June 2023

In Paros we dropped of Michael to catch his Athens ferry and new on board came Uwe and Florian, all experienced sailors on SY SEVEN.

Goodbye Paros

After storing our fresh provisions we headed off to Platys Gialos on the east side of Sifnos to fill up our front fresh water tank. The mooring lines where described to be chaotic in the small harbour and thats how it was. From Mary the local harbour master we got one mooring line that was tied up with the neighbours boat. Without any Meltemi gusts blowing in that was ok. Shortly after us three monstrous catamarans moored next to us.

Logbook from Paros, Cyclades to Leros, Dodecanese

Our next destination is Milos, Kleftiko east bay to the famous sandstone cliffs with crystal clear water, rocks and caves to explore.

On our way to the island Ios we anchored in the remote Agkali bay on the same named island.

We arrived in Santorini islands and found a good shelter for the night at Captain Johns Restaurant buoy on Thirasiaas as anchoring is nearly impossible due to the water depths around the volcanic island.

The never ending walk up took approximately 30 min. to the typical Greek style village Thirasia.

Goodbye Santorini on down wind sail to Anafi beach bay on East Anafi.

We anchored in Kamari, south on island Kos in shelter of the Meltemi wind as stopover to Kalymnos. The touristic place was full of bars, restaurants and tourists. The next morning we broke up earlier as the wind forecast was with 32 to 38 knots and our journey was hard on the wind up. After a bashing sail and motoring day we safely arrived in Vathy, a remote hidden settlement on the east side of Kalymnos.

Hidden Vathy, Kalymnos

For the next day we decided to stay in Vathy taking the welcome opportunity of everything in 50 to 100m walking distance. The dinner at Marmita tavern was excellent, locals eating there, fisherman, craftsmen, kids playing on the road with such a pleasant atmosphere.

Especially to mention the wrecked cars coming and leaving was always a good look. Most had one or two lights on the whole car functioning and dents everywhere, doors cracking …

As we woke up next morning, Florian had already left to catch the 7 am airplane to Athens. Uwe had to return the snaps he bought, as it wasn’t the Ouzo he assumed. Shortly after 9am we moored off and lifted the anchor for our next destination Archangelos south bay on the top of Leros.

We departed after a quiet night to Grikos bay on Patmos, a short 16 sm sail. The wind was very moderate and the forecast also for the next days. We arrived in the afternoon and moored on a buoy as the water ground was full of seaweed. After the last beers on board we rowed to land in our dinghy to buy some more and strolled into town for a mini market. Eventually we ended up in the restaurant back at boat. The waiter informed us that we’d have to go Scala, so we ordered our beer with swordfish and a chicken souvlaki.

Grikos bay

Today is Sunday and I made with the overripe banana’s a oat pancake for breakfast, before we headed of to Lipsi, a small island east from Patmos. There we tried to find a place on the harbour, but it was full, only a tiny space in shallow area, so we headed to the opposite bay and anchored. The recommended taverna on the map was open being the only guests for late lunch. Uwe took the fried octopus and I chose the greek salad, together with fava (yellow split pea purée) as starter. After a swim, siesta and air fan repair the afternoon passed pleasantly by. Uwe cooked on board delicious penne a la rabiate and we drank later on the obligatory ouzo on board.

The next morning we rowed to land with our dinghy and explored Marathos island. On the beach we carried the dinghy to a safe place and walked up the rugged hill for a magnificent view to the adjacent islands. Next to the chapel Saint Nicholas are many ruins of an earlier settlement.

Later on board we lifted the anchor and sailed downwind to Blefuti bay on Leros, our last bay before we get hauled out tomorrow from the boatyard.

Board life on land, removed all the sails and worked off the task list …

Boatyard on Leros