Durres – Vlorë July 2022

Next day we woke up at 8am and Willy headed spontaneously off into the city to get some missing provisions. On deck we prepared breakfast and showed up with chocolate croissants, Albanian style with a creamy light brown and very sweet filling. We prepared to moor off and then Llambi appeared waving to us with the clearance document in his hand. I was pleased to have a official document covered with stamps to hand over at our departing port in Sarande. He wished us all the best for our journey and to us later again. I started the engine and Willy dropped the only starboard bow mooring line and I put the forward gear in and commanded to Uwe: Cast off the lines and we loosened the aft lines, pulled them quickly in in an headed out of the marina berth into huge port area.

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Outside we had a good breeze and sailed south along the Albanian coastline. 

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Mid afternoon the water was very shallow with many people bathing and we spotted a fish restaurant called Posh on the map. The ground was sandy and good for anchoring so we decided to go on land with our dinghy leaving SEVEN half a mile from beach on it’s own.

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It showed up that the local beach restaurant was very posh so we ordered from the menu posh salad, grilled squid, shrimps and french fries with Munich Paulaner beer and a coke for the skipper. 

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The portions where quite small, so we ordered another plate of french fires and a round of beer with Italian music oldies running all the time. We walked back on the beach and noticed a police officer standing at the waterfront next to our dinghy. A second one came shortly and they asked us for our identity cards. Willy and I handed them over and they made fotos with their mobile phones each. Va bene said the officer and we explained that we came from Durres and are heading to Greece. Ok, all good he said. Uwe’s ID card was on the boat and they accepted the excuse and both rose their finger, Ok we can go. We managed to paddled back to the boat through the breaking waves getting all a bit wet. After a short swim and cool-down we motored a few miles south and anchored in front of an lagoon Petritit behind the sand beach. Far behind us we could hear the music from a beach bar and where happy to be in a totally remote place for the night.

 

Next morning the wind came shortly after 10 and we calmly sailed down the coastline with 2-3 knots speed.

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Today we made same procedure as yesterday and assuming anchored in front of the restaurant Bar Restorant Adriatik but it turned out just to be a beach bar, so we moved the boat another mile down to the right place.

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We called them to see if their kitchen was open, on the phone their was just a hallo, then came a friendly young voice and asked what we would like to eat, assuming we wanted it delivered on board. I asked her if we could eat in their restaurant and they can pick us up with their boat. She asked someone in the background and replied yes, at what time? In half an hour we are ready I replied. 

 

We got picked up by a black haired young couple with or siblings and they directed is into the kitchen to see what they are cooking. The grandmother gave us a sweet fried dough with some cherry jam to taste in the middle of kitchen mess. It was delicious and they showed us the fish they had catched, homemade tzatziki, shrimps … We agreed to all and received after our first local beer our first platter with salads and fried potatoes.

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As last dish we received a fruit platter with very ripe honey melon, oranges and small pears. It was definitely too much all, but it was the right place, a simpely run family restaurant

from 10 year old boys to the 70 year old Grandma. We asked for the bill and new they only would accept LEK, the local currency. Willy had 5200 left over and where querying how much would it cost us. She came with the hand written bill all in detail listed and it was exactly 5200 LEK!

 

On the transfer back to the boat a brother or relative waded through the water to us with a large 10 liter PET canister. He jumped in and headed to our boat where Uwe was on board. After the drop off they headed out into the shallow sea to check there fishing nets and boxes. The canister was with fuel, so they safely come home back. 

 

We drank a beer on board till later in the night and where again very pleased of the day. 

 

For the next day our target was to buy provisions in Vlorë, the second largest harbour city in Albania. 

 

The morning wind picked up quite soon after the porridge breakfast and obligatory tee cans of English breakfast with milk and darjeeling. We arrived at Vlorë at 4pm and we moored at the old pier to head into town. On channel 16 the harbour master advised us that we can stay max. 1 1/2 hours and that was fine for us to go shopping. Once of the gate we found in the close surroundings all we needed from fresh fruit to a local bakery. Along the port fences there was the beach for locals and quite normal to drive with the car on to the beach.

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In the glooming afternoon heat Willy and Uwe stored the provisions on board before we casted off the pier.

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On the way escaping the city heat we enjoyed the wind increase to set the sails to our new destiny.

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A few miles ahead we found a nice bay for the evening and next morning land exploration.

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Old military bunker systems are widely spreaded along the Albanian coastline.

coastline.

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First sight if Corfu (Kerkyra) island in the Ionian Sea.

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